Ramunto’s in Hanover offers hikers a free slice of cheese pizza (and they have Guiness on tap!!!) . Ben & Jerry’s gives hikers 10% off any purchase. Ugh and you wonder why trail nutrition is so difficult!

The Appalachian Trail passes through the Dartmouth campus here and right through down town Hanover. There are a lack of places for hikers to stay here though. Some hikers stay at frat houses but um…well that’s not for me so I actually spent most of my time at a hotel a few towns away.

Thinking about the value of books the whole time and stopped at the book store to grab a book to read on the way out. It’s titled ” The Goddesses In Every Woman” I actually have a copy of it back in my studio and it seemed silly to buy another but I simply couldn’t find anything more appealing for the weight:)

Hanover makes me miss city life very much. I am sitting on a bench listening to my mp3 player people watching when I am already behind and should get moving.

Vermont is a short walk away. Onward I guess.

“Whence come the highest mountains? I once asked. Then I learned they came out of the sea. The evidence is written in their rocks and in the walls of their peaks. It is out of the deepest depths that the highest must come to its height.” excerpt from Thus Spoke Zarathustra – Friedrich Nietzsche

I have long considered books to be absolutely amazing things. Simple treasures of printed words on paper. Vast collections of our collective knowledge mass produced and accessible to just about anyone that can read.

I don’t have much college education just a couple of semesters here and there. I don’t have anything against going to college, it was always a matter of affordability for me. I just didn’t have the financial means for it. Because I couldn’t go to college I was forced to look at learning from a different perspective.

It was this perspective that made me realize the value of books. I came to the realization that for the cost of a book and a little of my time I could learn the same things taught in a college course. Sure it takes a little more self discipline and you don’t get the same things you might get in a group learning environment, but you can still get the same core knowledge often at a much faster and more efficient pace.  You can often do this for very little money with used book stores and libraries.

It was this realization that even after I could earn enough to afford college gave me a preference for self learning. Thanks to books I am self-taught in most everything I do. I am a self-taught artist, a successful computer programmer, a student of history, nutrition, science, women’s studies and photography all thanks to books.

The passage above is from my favorite book and is one of my favorite excerpts ever. I find it particularly relevant as a metaphor for trying to change one’s self. It is out of ones deepest depths that ones highest peaks are born. I also find relevance in this passage and its metaphors as I climb these high peaks and work through the highs and lows of a journey such as this. Of course as well the relations of the man in the mountains in the story.

I am always fascinated by the ability of the contents of a book to seep into your sub-concious. While some things you learn from books immediately take hold in your mind others are ideas planted like seeds that take years to grow.

I first read Zarathustra when I was in my mid-twenties. I have read it several times since. Not too long ago I went back and read it again. I was suprised and amazed to find in the printed words many seeds of the philosophies and concepts I use in my life today but wasn’t  sure where they came from.

This trip has reminded me of the value of books. I believe also a trip like this is much like a good book. While some things I will learn along the way will be immediate, others will like planted seeds come to fruition over time.

Stone walls such as the ones pictured above are quite common in the woods on the east coast. It doesn’t take a historian to figure out they are fairly old and have been around for quite some time. They are often covered in moss, falling apart and overgrown.

When I see them I wonder about them. I wonder about the people that built them. The people that lived in these woods long ago. I wonder how they lived and what their lives were like. I wonder who they were.

I wonder why they built these walls. At first I thought perhaps they were keeping animals in. People of those times surely kept some animals for food. Chickens perhaps? Cows? In the woods though? Maybe but would such walls wouldn’t be effective with chickens?

Perhaps these were defensive walls. Most are not very high and would not provide great protection. Surely though they would provide sufficient cover against the rifles of those times. I imagined for a moment a minute man ducking behind one of these walls for protection from British soldiers trying to crush our fight for independence.

After imagining reasons of defense or farming logic set in and I realized what I think were the real reasons for these walls. They were more than likely used to mark property boundaries. Nothing too exciting.

I wonder again about the people who lived within these walls. Did they have to walk the 16 miles to Hanover for supplies as I was today? Were they as anxious to get it over as I was or were they so used to such a walk it didn’t bother them much? Are parts of the Appalachian Trail the same paths they walked to town? Would they look forward to a nice big pint of their favorite brew when they got there as I would?:)

It’s funny I never cared for history when I was younger. As I grow older I am fascinated by it. I especially love learning about the people who were in the places I now go long before I am there. Constantly discovering this rich layering of people and history is also one if my favorite reasons for loving New York City so much.

I guess an interest in history comes with age. The realization that our time here is fleeting, that someday others will walk were we have walked and will also wonder of us who  were they?

“I never expected to make friends out here. Thought I’d be alone.” Brookie said earlier to night. I replied with the same “Totally me niether. Thought I’d be alone.” We both reflected on our little crew,  Flora, Fauna, Walker and each other. How fond we had all grown of each other in such a short time and well somewhat unexpectedly.

Brookie is done hiking the trail. It was his plan all along to only do Maine through the Whites. He actually finished a few days back. We had been separated since the Presidentials.

I was planning on taking my time getting into Hanover, New Hampshire when I ran into Walker. He told me that Brookie was done hiking, getting ready to make his big move west and was going to stop in Hanover to catch the gang for one last goodbye.

I contemplated my plan for an easy stroll into Hanover vs a 19 mile day followed by a 16 early to try and catch Brookie. I pushed hard and made it. We had laughs and fun, beers and memories.

Brookie said 2 things that will always stick with me. First he said “Chip, there’s something about you that puts people at ease.” Not sure I have ever heard that before, not sure It’s even true but I like it:)

Second Brookie says he was afraid of heights like me. Says he started climbing (cliffs not just hiking) to overcome his fear of heights.  He does winter climbing. Ice and serious climbing including Katadihn in winter. My first reaction was a laugh and yeah I’ll NEVER!!! He went on to describe a winter morning climb.

Brookie described getting up before first light, watching the colors of the snow change as the light broke. He described making breakfast atop a snow covered mountain. Watching the light of the sun as it trickled in on the slope. The colors of the snow as they changed from dark hues of purple’s and blues creeping out of the shadows into deep oranges. The oranges grew into bright reds and yellows as the sun rose over the mountain.

I had hardly ever heard such an amazing description and thoughts of overcoming my own fears to experience something so incredible swept over me. We shall see.

Dan is a warm friendly person who makes you smile and laugh. He had challenged me to expand my boundaries and grow as a person and that’s why I am out here.

Here’s to you Dan. I hope your move west is everything you hope for and more. Thank you for your friendship and for your inspiration. I am truly grateful. Enjoy the journey!

Location: Lincoln, New Hampshire

While in Lincoln waiting to meet up with some old friends I decided to catch a movie. Inception looked good and the timing was right. 6$ for a matinee, if only NYC could be so cheap!

I really enjoyed the film. It was much better than Leonardio Decaprio’s last film Shutter Island. It was a beautifuly layered complex mind puzzle. Just the mental food my brain was craving. I am very glad I took the time out to watch it.

Location: Lincoln, New Hampshire

I have had little problem hitch hiking into towns from the trail. Many people who live near the trail are hikers themselves or have family and friends who have hiked the trail.

My hitch into Lincoln was an interesting one. The guy who picked me up had several bumper stickers touting gun rights and various other right wing organizations. I can put aside politics and be truly grateful for the favor of a ride so I got in.

The man who stopped to pick me up was wearing a mechanics uniform. He was sipping on a Budwiser and smelled pretty strongly of beer. One first words after his hello were “You know there are a lot of similarities between being a hiker and the shape you have to be in to be a trained and efficient killer out there on the battlefield. To be able to kill you know.” He continued on “You really have to be in great shape to be a good killer”

Now…I’m kinda thinking though that’s not exactly the first thing you come out with when meeting a stranger. I can be a little bit of a ball buster so I think I know when someone is just having fun with me or being honest. I think this guy really enjoyed talking about killing. Needless to say when he pulled over to stop and buy more beer despite my luck with hitching so far I became a little on edge.

I played it cool but thoughts of a Pulp Fiction back basement kind of scene ran through my head. I frantically started looking for details, the make and model of the car I was in, anything I could take note of should I need to make a police report at some time.

He got back and we drove on to the Hiker hostel. Everything went ok and there was nothing to worry about but I still think it was a strange way to start a conversation!

Location: Franconia Ridge Franconia Notch State Park White Mountains National Forest

I had heard since I started the trail in Maine how “scary” and “terrifying” the Whites were. Being somewhat afraid of heights and having had the crap scared out of me at Katadihn I was a little more than nervous about the Whites. I had already hiked the biggest mountains Washington and the Presidential range and didn’t find any situation there too scary.

I had guessed everyone must be talking about the upcoming narrow Franconia Ridge. It was the only major section I had left, it must have been the “scary part”

I set out early in the morning hoping to make the cross over the exposed ridge in good weather. I hiked to the top of Garefield Mountain and the view was spectacular. I looked at a ridge across the way and thought to myself “wow the top of that looks thin and scary” not realizing that was the Franconia Ridge I was headed for.

I made my way down Garefield and through some woods. As the trail turned towards the mountains I had seen earlier I put 2 & 2 together and realized that ridge I spotted earlier was Franconia. I pressed on preparing myself for the worst.

As I climbed the first side of the AT leading up to the ridge, the boulders grew large and it was a bit of work but nothing scary. I came up over the top and as I looked at the crossing i thought it didn’t look so scary.

It was incredibly and powerfully beautiful but never scary. Sure it was high but never too thin or to technical. I really, really enjoyed this hike. I’m not sure where the “scary” part of the whites is but this definitely was not it.

Location: Garefield Ridge Campsite Garefield Mountain

It rained hard the night before, but had let up after early morning. The forecast was for clearing later in the day but rain later the next afternoon. I originally planned to make 13 miles but as I learned of the forecast I decided to press on 6 more so I could get closer to the Franconia Ridge and hopefully cross it the next morning before storms set in.

19 miles in the Whites was a bit ambitious since the terrain is pretty rough and I had a late start trying to avoid the morning rain. It was tough and muddy all day.

When I decided to make the last 3 mile push from the AMC Galehead hut to the Garefield campsite it was already 7pm. I knew I would be getting in late and even after dark but I really wanted to make Franconia Ridge the next day in good weather so I pushed on.

It got dark and I put on my head lamp. It was my first night hiking experience and the biggest problem I had was not swallowing the moths that were making dive bombs for my head lamp. I was gaining altitude and  it was getting cold. I was soaked in sweat and contemplating “stealth camping” somewhere off the trail. I would run the risk of a ticket but wasn’t sure I could make the campsite.

Just as I was about to give up and set up camp I saw a sign that said “Garefield Ridge Campsite .5″ I thought “I can do this, I haven’t met a half mile I couldn’t bang out yet!” I pushed in hard and fast.

I was starting to wonder if I was there yet when I ran smack into a waterfall! I stopped and thought to myself, ok its dark maybe I missed a turn. I looked around frantically for a turn or side trail. Nothing. I deduced the trail actually went straight up the middle of the waterfall.

I said out loud “Garefield you must be kidding!!!” I looked at the waterfall for a way up it without getting wet. It was definitely climbable but the water levels were high from the heavy rains the night before. I knew I wasn’t going to get up this without getting pretty wet.

I wasn’t happy about having to do this, especially in the dark but I made the decision to move fast and get it over with. I climbed up the waterfall as quickly as I could safely manage. It wasn’t an easy climb and I got absolutely soaked.

I made it to camp just as the caretaker was going to bed. I set up my hammock glad to have made it but very wet and cold.

I have learned to keep dry clothes in a zip lock bag for sleeping in. Unfortunately I was wearing my jacket while hiking that night and it was soaked with sweat and waterfall. I could not sleep with it on and at that altitude it was freezing!!! One of the coldest nights sleep I have had yet.

Location: Dry River Campground Crawford Notch State Park NH

I had heard of “massive storms” expected later on Wednesday. I do not do so well with rain hiking. I get very moody when I have to hike in the rain, and if I have to  put on wet clothes and hike in more rain the next morning, well let’s say I get down right pissy! But I know, you’ll never finish if you don’t hike in the rain.

Some people handle the rain out here a little better. Walker just moves right along singing and whistling despite any rain.

To be fair it only rained on me about 3 days for all of my time in Maine and that’s a state where you want it least. It has been quite the opposite in New Hampshire. I think it has rained 6 out of the last 8 days or so.

I had made 11 miles by 1pm and they weren’t too hard, I could have easily pressed on but instead made the decision to hitch hike to a state campground down the road from where the trail came out at Crawford Notch. Another hiker I had bunked with at Lake of the Clouds the previous night thought this was a little less than ambitious and was planning to press on another 5 miles to an AMC shelter.

I hitched a ride pretty easily, grabbed a tent site and set up my hammock. I tried to do a really good setup in anticipation of coming storms. John the parks employee had said of the weather “well those things are hit or miss”

I know most people tend to disagree but i have to say I think weather today is pretty darn accurate. Sure every day in summer on the east coast is “chance of thunder storms” It’s the humidity we have here. However if they say %60 or greater chance its a good bet there will be rain.

No sooner than I had set up and sat down to make lunch it started. Hard loud thunder and pouring rain. It rained for almost 12 hours straight.

I have to say my hammock held up incredibly! I did also put my rain poncho which doubles as a tarp over the top of the hammock rain fly. Not one drop I’d water in there though and damn did it rain hard at times, as hard as I had ever camped in.

It did continue with some rain the next morning as I headed out but boy am I glad I was not out or at altitude in those storms. I also had dry clean clothes and a shower I was able to take advantage of at the  campground:)

After I summited Mt. Washington the visitors center closed and I headed to the AMC Lake of the Clouds Hut with Walker. 

The walk there was relatively short, about 1.5 miles. When we arrived the scene inside was pure chaos. The Lake of the Clouds Hut is the largest of the AMC High Huts with a capacity of 90. A group of camp children had shown up a day early and they were 20 over capacity.

Walker and I joined the other thru-hikers looking for work for stay on 2 benches. I was absolutely exhausted, my knees were throbbing with excruciating pain from the day of fast rough rocky terrain and all I wanted to do was sleep.

It was dinner time and it was so loud in there. I wasn’t wild about the situation. It felt like we were homeless people lined up on a bench waiting for a meal and a roof over our heads and we didn’t know if we would get either. No one from the staff had talked to us and with the group of +20 paying customers I had my doubts about how things would work out.

After about an hour a staff member asked us if we were hungry and brought us back to the kitchen where we were given leftovers of lasagna, green beans, and brownies. I was grateful for the food but had still heard nothing about where we would sleep. Had we not been above tree line I would have left to camp out long before.

I had imagined they would sleep us in the dining area on the benches or even the floor. I laid down on a bench and tried to close my eyes. One of the other hikers woke me up and asked if I would like to help with the dishes. I did and shortly after talk began between the staff and some of the other hikers about where we were going to sleep.

There was talk of sleeping us in a place they were calling “The Dungeon” It didn’t  sound good and we pleaded for something else. One of the staff said well you can stay on the kitchen floor. I looked at the very dirty floor and said no thanks, I’d take my chances in the “Dungeon”.

4 of us headed down there including Walker. It was a cinder block room outside under the kitchen. When we opened the door it smelled of mold and was very damp. There were 2 bunks made of 2×4′s with plywood. The plywood looked wet and dirty. Someone said there were mice in there and we should hang our food.

I really, really wanted to camp somewhere else but at 6000 feet and above tree line I had no options. I was last one in and had to take a top bunk. I laid out my sleeping bag and crawled into my bunk. No sooner than we had all turned off our head lamps I heard mice making noises on the floor below.

I closed my eyes and tried to tell myself that in 6 hours it would all be over. I knew I would sleep very little but in 6 hours it would be light, I could leave and it would all be over. The plywood was cold, damp and smelled musty beneath me.

My thoughts raced and I remembered a power bar wrapper in my pocket. I was frozen thinking of a mouse crawling over me to get to it. I didn’t want to wake everyone by getting up to put it in my hanging food bag. I laid awake never so exhausted wondering if I would sleep a wink. As the night passed I wasn’t sure what was sleep, what was dreams and what was an awake state of paranoia.

As first light came we all got up, quickly packed our packs and headed out.

Despite the horrible conditions that night I was treated to one of the most beautiful hikes I have ever experienced the following morning. The sun was just coming up, the light was great, the scenery stunning and I was able to get what I feel are some of the best pictures of my hike yet!

Location: White Mountains National Forest Presidential Mountains

After summiting Mt. Madison I made my way down to the AMC lodge Madison Hut just down the peak and before the next peak Mt. Adams. Brookie, Walker, Flora, and Fauna were all supposed to meet up there.

No one else from our group was there. I figured Walker had to be ahead of me and moved on since he went ahead the previous day in the rain to the tent site near the base. Brookie and the girls could show up at any time I really had no idea.

It was only 2:30, I wasn’t wild about staying at this hut and after talking to Murph I was contemplating pushing on. Since this is all above tree line exposed ridge it would have meant making it 6 more miles and included a push over the big daddy Mt. Washington.

I thought it over. I might make the Lake of the Clouds Hut a little late, maybe 8-9 but I might make free dinner leftovers too. The weather was good. I repeated to myself, “the weather is good, the weather is good!!!” and I decided to make the push on.

I filled up with water as I left Madison Hut and realized my bladder had sprung a leak:( Not the one in my mid-section, but the water bladder in my backpack. Everything in the pack is kept separate in a pack liner bag and ziplocks so nothing got wet but this meant I would have to make this push with only the water I could carry in my 32oz Nalgene. I was guessing that being above tree line there wouldn’t be any water sources I could filter. I drank as much as I could before leaving, filled the bottle and headed out.

It was a very rough all rocky terrain. Unlike the AT in Maine though it didn’t go over every peak and instead went around most. I was already moving pretty fast when after about 1 hour I heard thunder begin to rumble in the distance and saw storm clouds building over near Mt. Madison where I had left.

The thunder got me moving even faster and for a while it looked like it might miss the more western mountains and Washington where I was headed. I out ran the storm for 2 hours but as I made it to the 1.1 mile marker to the peak of Mt. Washington rain quickly began to fall on me. I threw on my poncho and pushed on up towards the peak of Mt. Washington.

The rain quickly became very heavy, then frozen, then small balls of hail. The hail pelted my face and I soon lost all visibility. I stopped and laughed loudly. I could hardly believe the situation. I pushed forward repeating out loud over and over “I’m not done with this fucking mountain!!!” The winds picked up, I pushed harder and harder.

Eventualy I made it to the top of Mt. Washington. It was such a mess out I could hardly see anything, but I could barely make out the structure of the top observation visitors building. I had trouble finding the front of the building as wind gusts blew me into the adjacent weather observatory.

I managed to stumble my way into the visitors center. People were staring at me as I was covered in my soaked poncho and looking quite battered no doubt.

The sign in the visitors center said “Welcome to Mt. Washington Home of the Worst Weather in America” Thanks, as if I had missed that on my way up;)

I dragged my beaten self to a table in the cafeteria and pulled off my soaked poncho and sat down trying to catch my breath. As I sat and looked towards the big observation Windows I saw Walker!:) I was so happy to see a familiar face. I ran over to say hi and told him of my experience getting caught out there. We laughed and I grabbed something to eat.

Walker and I were both headed to the AMC Lake of the Clouds Hut since there were no other camping options at this altitude above tree line. The visitors center soon closed and we headed out for the hut

Location: White Mountains National Forest Mt. Madison

As I descended Mt. Madison, just before reaching Madison Hut. I met Murph. I said hello, she said “hello, are you a thru-Hiker?” I said yes. She said “you have that look”

I tried to think of something witty to say but had to focus on our conversation. We exchanged stories, leave dates, high/low points, and where we had come from and made it to today. As we said our goodbyes and I contemplated making the push to where she started, it came to me!!!

You “have that look”, “What, the look like I am subjecting myself to ridiculous amounts of pain and torture for what???”

Yeah that look. The “Thru-hiker” look lol.

The Appalachian Trail in New Hampshire is on United States Forest Service land. A US government organization. It is leased and managed by the Appalachian Mountain Club (In Maine it is the Maine Appalachian Trail Club)

The Appalachian Mountain Club is often jokingly referred to by hikers here as the Appalachian Money Club. I’d have to say they are not too popular with hikers here.

In Maine you can camp pretty much anywhere below tree line. Because of weather exposure you generally don’t want to camp above tree line anyhow. The Maine ATC leaves it up to hikers to practice leave no trace and good sense camping.

In New Hampshire there are a lot more rules about where you can and can not camp. The AMC has a system of “Huts” and “Campsites” they run and want everyone to use and of course there are fee’s to use these. Since most hikers are on a very tight budget this does not go over well.

To be fair the AMC does this to limit user impact on woods areas, however what you end up with is a monopoly where hikers who try to camp outside the fee areas can be ticketed and fined.

The AMC “Campsites” are pretty basic, have a maintained privy, shelter, tent platforms and a caretaker to collect the fees and maintain the site. The fee to stay at these is $8 per night.

The AMC “Huts” are lodges that have bunk beds, running water, a kitchen, dining hall and a staff of anywhere from 3-8. Some can sleep up to 90 people. The rate for these is $90 per night and includes dinner and breakfast.

These huts have some electricity for crew and limited lighting but none for guests to charge cameras etc. Since these huts are remote I understand and have no problem with no showers or electricity, however I feel $90 is a ridiculously high rate to charge for just a bunk and 2 meals.

Thru-hikers can do “work for stay” at these huts. Sounds like a good deal. Do some dishes, help cook, clean and get fed and a place to sleep. However, its not quite as good as it sounds.

The huts are all staffed and managed by young adults around age 18-24. There are a limited number of work for stay spots available per night at each hut and those spots are decided upon by staff. If the staff doesn’t like you or is a bad mood you can be out of luck or get shafted. I have had a horrible experience with this being forced to sleep in a mold and mouse infested basement. Others I know slept in a food storage shed.

The AMC does do good things, their staff is often great (and underpaid) and they keep some very well maintained trails.

Location: Carter Mountains, Presidential’s Range, White Mountains, New Hampshire

Brookie and I camped together last night as the girls pressed on to one of the Appalachian Mountain Club huts further on.

We were camped across from Mt. Washington in the Carter Mountains range. We were camped somewhere close to 4000 feet. The Presi’s as Brookie likes to call them are the tallest range on the east coast with Mt. Washington topping out at 6,288 feet.

At that altitude they have their own crazy and erratic weather systems.

We went to bed around 9 and though it was very windy the skies were pretty clear. Around 2 hours later I awoke to what sounded like the loudest thunder I had heard in my entire life. I ran out to move my pack under my hammock and throw my rain poncho over my hammock rain fly for extra protection. The skies lit with lightening bright as day.

We were pretty well below tree line so we were relatively safe. I wish I was able to get some pictures though, it was incredible!!! (picture above clouds coming off Mt. Washington next morning)

(image: 2 very greasy vegetable quesadilla’s)

Anyone that knows me well enough knows I have taken a in-depth interest in healthy nutrition the past few years especially.

Probably one of the hardest things to accept about doing the trail was that I would not be able to maintain the healthy eating I had become so accustomed to living in NYC.

I have eaten things on the trail, things which are not only nutritionally terrible for you but also very difficult for me to stomach with my digestion problems. I really wish I didn’t know the things I do about nutrition.

I have eaten pancakes. It’s been something like 10 years since I have eaten pancakes and I can think of few things more lacking in nutrition than a cake of bleached white flour soaked in refined sugars.

Ice cream, hamburgers, pizza, brownies, the list goes on. It’s difficult when you come off the trail hungry, starving and full of all kinds of strange cravings. It’s difficult not to eat everything you can get your hands on and unfortunately in some small towns all you can get your hands on is pretty limited.

It doesn’t help that because of all  the exercising your doing  you can eat all if this junk and still loose weight. After 1 month I am down 10 pounds despite the junk food.

A distance Hiker typically burns somewhere between 3000-5000 calories a day. It’s difficult to carry that many calories for 4-5 days and really almost impossible to eat that much.

I am learning though. I am learning to fight those initial cravings, to eat out less in town and to shop better for trail food even with limited selections. I have heard that as you get further south your grocery options do get better.

In the end though with limited resources and under extreme circumstances it is damage control. I am going to need a serious cleanse after this.